ASPHALT PAVING
Asphalt
paving will beautify the property you take care of, reduce liability
risks, and increase asset values.
One
of the primary concerns of asphalt paving is the value of the paving
vs the costs. Cost can sometimes be fairly high in asphalt paving
but this does reflect a value. An asphalt overlay (asphalt layed on
top of existing asphalt) can often look like a new job, but if it
is not done correctly, the lifespan of the overlay will be greatly
reduced.
OVERLAYS
Preparation
is everything with asphalt paving. Really, asphalt concrete pavement
is not very strong. It is the base condition to what the asphalt is
placed on that makes a difference. The base must be structurally solid;,
if not, cracking in the old asphalt will come right through. This
reflective cracking can occur fairly quick and can show within one
year or if the cracking is caused by roots, they may return within
weeks. Paving over the cracks is usually not recommended unless some
sort of remedial work is completed prior to work or some other method
of reducing the reflective cracking is made.
RECONSTRUCTION
In
some cases, overlays are not recommended. Places with alligator cracking
(an area of numerous closely spaced cracks) indicates a base (gravel)
failure. This is a problem below the asphalt to which an overlay will
not solve. A soft base will cause excessive deflection on wheel loading
causing the pavement to exceed its flexible limits and crack. Commonly
this requires cut out and removal of the existing asphalt, the base
reconstructed, and reinstated with new asphalt. Sometimes, these cut
outs can be completed in small areas, but if there are numerous areas
of faulty base, a total reconstruction is often a more effective and
sometimes cheaper way to go.
Total
reconstruction can often be quite pricy because of the large work
involved around removal of the existing material. However, reconstruction
should solve any problems previously noticed with the old asphalt.
HOW DEEP SHOULD THE ASPHALT BE?
Generally
with new asphalt concrete pavement, the minimum depth is dependant
on the loading type. Generally 3 inches is ample for most applications.
Sometimes you may go as low as 2" but this would be for light
loading areas such as pedestrian walkways. More criticle however is
the base condition. If the base is not sound, the pavement won't last.
Should
the area be subjected to large amounts of loading such as a garbage
truck or fire trucks, then it may be suitable to place 4 or more inches
of asphalt concrete pavement in two lifts (layers).
WHEN SHOULD I PLAN FOR PAVING?
On
the west coast, it is best to plan the paving during dry periods.
If you have larger jobs, it is best to leave them for the dry months
where the project may take two or more days. This way, there is a
better guarantee that the working conditions are optimal. On smaller
jobs such as driveways, the time frame for paving can be fit into
any dry day, however, there are certain restriction such as paving
during a frost period is not a good idea.
Overlays
on the other hand must be restricted to not only a dry day, but on
a day when the surface is dry and relatively warm.
HOW LONG DO I HAVE TO WAIT BEFORE DRIVING
ON NEW ASPHALT?
You
can drive on asphalt once it has cooled. However, if there is an stopping
or parking on the new asphalt pavement, it is best to wait about 4
days or as long as possible. Longer waits should be designated if
the area is subject to large loadings. Wait times of a week may be
recommended if there is abnormally warm weather or the paving is done
on a large reflective south facing wall.
SKIN PATCHING
Skin
patching is the application of a thin layer of asphalt concrete pavement.
It is often used to correct minor problems such as depressions and
bumps. Skin patching is not a structural fix, but merely a temporary
quick solution to a problem. It can also be used as an overlay in
some cases such as pedetrian uses.
Skin
patching usually uses a finer asphalt concrete pavement mix meaning
it provides a smooth appearance. However, the texture of a skin patch
may not match the existing old asphalt.
Skin
patching should be done when the ground is not frozen or wet.
PATCH
MASTER
The
Patchmaster is a unique machine which is specialized for quick asphalt
repairs. It uses a heated pad to warm up the existing asphalt to a
point where it can then be raked, new material added if needed, and
compacted to form a seamless matching patch.
The
patchmaster is ideal for parking lots where there is uneven surfaces
around catchbasins, manhole, or oil spotted parking stalls. The patchmaster
also provides s emi permanent repairs on alligatored areas.
POTHOLES
Potholes
are an annoyance to drivers and a safety hazard to pedestrians. They
tend to grow quite rapidly once started.
What
causes potholes?
Potholes
are generally caused by poor or improper drainage. They form when
water drains through the asphalt into the base through cracks in the
asphalt. Wheel loading from vehicles then disperses the water in the
base and the soil along with it. Eventually, dispersion of the base
will become frequent enough to form deterioration of the asphalt and
base causing a pothole.
How
do I fix potholes?
Commonly
a simple patch involving clean out of the pothole, and an asphalt
concrete pavement patch is performed. However, this does not solve
the underlying problem of a weak base at the specific area if there
is surrounding cracks. To properly fix the pothole area, the section
must be cut out and reconstructed.
Items
to consider.
Potholes
that are patches generally do not last very long. Without a proper
cut out and hot patch, water will continue to infiltrate to the base.
Pothole patching should not be completed with conventional hot mix
when the ground is frozen or there is water in the pothole. Cold mix
is available for this purpose. Cold mix is often used in the winter
when conditions are not suitable for hot mix patching. Conventional
cold mix however is often a temporary patch. For a more permanent
patch, a high performance modified cold mix patch is more suitable
and will give better value.
SHOVING &
PUSHING
Shoving
or pushing is a result of horizontal forces pushing an asphalt to
form a bump. The cause of this is usually improper mix design of the
asphalt or improper maintenance practises. Pushing and shoving is
often seen on roadways where an overlay has been put over a section
of painted lines creating an improper bond, or where an asphalt road
is subjected to loading it was not designed for.
ROOT DAMAGE
Root
damage is expensive. Most people don't realize how much trees can
affect asphalt. Roots tend to grow right below the asphalt surface.
They may be small, but they have as much pushing power as a weed and
will cause cracking in your asphalt surface.
How
do I fix the problem?
To
solve the problem, remove the tree and rehabilitate the affected area.
If the trees are important, consider asphalt removal, root removal,
and then finish with new asphalt concrete. For quick safety repairs,
sometimes a simple membrane and skin patch application will suffice.
At minimum, a crack seal is recommended.
As
a general rule, don't place tree's close to an asphalt surface were
the canopy of the tree overhangs the asphalt surface. Keep shubs,
such as junipers even further away than just their canopy.
CRACK SEALING
Cracking
in asphalt concrete-surfaced pavements are inevitable and are the
primary mode of deterioration. Neglect leads to accelerated cracking
and/or pot holes, further reducing the quality and lifespan of the
asphalt service. Regular maintenance, in this case, crack sealing,
will add an average of five years life to deteriorated pavements at
a substantially reduced cost in comparison to traditional asphalt
repairs such as cutting out and hot patching and resurfacing.
Pavement
is often the last item on the property managers and building owners'
maintenance list. As a result, the cracks are left to deteriorate
to the point where costly repairs such as cutting out and hot patching
or resurfacing are required. The cost of cutting out and hot patching
is normally three times more expensive than traditional resurfacing
(per square foot).
MATERIALS
Two types of sealants are available to seal cracking: cold applied
or hot-applied thermoplastic materials. In terms of serviceability
(or lifespan/ performance), hot-applied and cold-applied are incomparable.
Cold-applied sealants last only a matter of months whereas hot-applied
crack sealant with rubberized polymers can provide up to five years
of service.
The
most cost effective method for serviceability is hot-poured crack
sealant with rubberized polymers. It should be noted that specialized
equipment is used to correctly heat the rubberized elastomeric sealant.
It requires a double jacketed hot oil kettle, and the temperature
is carefully controlled during a slow melting process to bring the
material to the proper tem perature. If the elastomeric crack sealant
is heated incorrectly or without the proper kettle, the material is
burned causing oxidization and premature failure. Unfortunately some
contractors use a roofing kettle or propane torch to heat the sealant
material (which burns it) and this type of equipment is not appropriate.
PREPARATION
OF ASPHALT FOR CRACK SEALING
The crack itself must be cleaned and heated with a hot jet air lance,
which does not expose the road surface to direct flame, thereby damaging
the asphalt. Preparing the cracks are an important part of the sealing
procedure. Compressed air units (hot air jet lance) are the most desirable
for cleaning the cracks, removing dust, debris, loosened fragments
and drying the crack channels.
Routed
crack sealing is recommended whenever possible. Crack cutting or routed
crack sealing is recommended to allow the sealant a good reservoir
to bond. If the cracks are not large enough in which to place the
sealant, it will not allow the sealant to bond. If not enough sealant
is used, it will not protect the asphalt concrete from water penetration,
the main cause of deterioration in asphalt surfaces.
APPLYING
THE SEALANT
Over
banding ensures the best possible bond and that is achieved by striking
the surface with a special tool after applying the sealant. After
the sealant is applied a blotting material such as limestone dust
or sand is applied to protect the uncured crack treatment materials
and prevent tracking. Once the crack is blotted traffic can resume
immediately.
RAVELING
Ravelling
is the loss of asphalt pavement from the surface, generally due to
oxidation of the asphalt binder and chemical reaction. Raveling is
a natural aging process of asphalt pavement from weathering. Chemical
spills from vehicles can advance this process and create holes in
the asphalt. Parking lots are highly prone to chemical raveling.
To
prevent raveling, a seal coat is applied. The seal coat will protect
the asphalt from oxidizing and chemical spills.
SEAL
COATING & OXIDATION
Why should I seal coat?
A
seal coat is a protective layer applied to the surface of asphalt
concrete pavement. It protects against moisture infiltration, oxidation
from weathering, and chemical spills. In addition, a seal coat provides
that new black look to asphalt pavement, rejuvenating the properties
appearance and therefore increasing the property value.
If
you have significant patching on your asphalt with colour variations,
seal coating will help blend the patching to make your asphalt look
more uniform.
Dollar
wise, seal coating will reduce the amount of maintenance work required
and extend the life of the pavement. This means beautification by
means of asphalt overlays can be postponed or even eliminated. In
equivalent terms, seal coating is 1/7th the cost of resurfacing. With
proper small maintenance and sealing, a 20 year seal coating program
is equal to one application of resurfacing. Over 20 years without
sealing, an asphalt overlay may require grinding and reapplication.
No matter what, you end up ahead with seal coating.
How
long does it take to dry?
Factors
that affect the dry time include thickness of application, humidity,
wind speed, and temperature. During warmer summer months, seal coats
in the sun can dry in as little as one hour. However, on damp humid
nights, seal coats may take up to 24 hours to dry.
How
long does it take to cure?
Just
because seal coat is dry to the touch does not mean it has cured.
Seal coat does take some time to cure and until then the seal coat
is softer and more susceptible to tire abrasion. Curing times vary
depending on weather and thickness, but generally an average rule
is 2 to 3 days before wheel marking on fresh seal coat will subside.
This is not to say the seal coat will peel off while it’s curing,
but there may be some wear showing on the aggregate surface.
When
should I apply seal coat and how often?
Once
new asphalt has been laid, a seal coat should be applied 3 to 5 years
later. If you have a commercial or industrial business with oil spotting
and spills in parking stalls you may want to consider seal coating
once the surface oils of the fresh asphalt are no longer visible in
approximately 6 months time. Once applied, it should be recoated every
3 to 5 yrs, depending on traffic volumes and wear.
The
seal coat looks like it is wearing off, why?
Seal
coating will wear down at different rates depending on the mechanical
abrasion activity of the traffic. Snow plows and winter sanding will
often accelerate the wear. The seal coat will wear off on the aggregates
within the asphalt mix that vehicle tires cross over. However, this
does not mean the seal coat is no longer effective. Seal coating benefits
come primarily from the sealing of the asphalt binder surface, not
the surface course of exposed aggregate. Sealant looking worn down
or missing may still be present between the aggregate and therefore
will still be providing chemical and ultraviolet protection to the
asphalt binder that holds the pavement together.
Recoats
of sealant will often require a fog coat on areas of high wear and
a reseal will last longer than the original seal.
What’s
involved in a recoat?
A
recoat is similar to the original application, however it may require
significantly less priming (fog coat) and may not have to be as thick
in areas of less wear. This said, a reseal may run as low as 60% of
the original initial sealing cost.
What about pavement cracking?
Seal
coat should not be expected to fill visible cracks or prevent existing
cracks from spreading. Seal coat will seal micro fractures or surface
stress cracking but it can not structurally repair asphalt. Crack
sealing is the most cost effective repair method for asphalt preservation.
Roaron Construction can provide total pavement maintenance services.
We use only high quality municipal grade or better rubberized crack
sealants.
Is
seal coat slippery?
Seal
coating will reduce the friction of asphalt pavement. The sealed asphalt
will not be slippery to where a vehicle will lose traction but a review
on steep sloped sections should take place prior to sealing. The seal
coat applied is embedded with sand or sand like material to increase
traction characteristics. There is no cause for concern in regards
to pedestrian traffic.
How
thick does it go on?
Seal
coating will go on thick, approximately 2mm. As it dries and the water
or solvent leaves the product it will cure to a thickness of approximately
0.5 to 0.9 mm thick.
Traffic
Markings?
Your
road and parking lot lines will be covered from a seal coat application.
The seal coat will stick to the existing road markings very well.
Repainting the lines are not a problem as the existing lines once
coated have a relief outline texture which is easily visible for repainting.
Why
latex?
Latex,
an expensive additive is often recommended for areas of high use.
Latex will increase the bonding ability and flexural strength of the
sealant and thereby increase the overall lifespan of the product.
Are
there different types of sealers?
Yes.
There are solvent carried and water carried sealants. Each can have
different properties and be suitable for different applications. There
are different grades to suit varying client demands and budgets. Roaron
Construction never uses bulk economy grade sealants and will provide
other specialty sealers for different surface types and usage.
EPOXYS
& URETHANES
To
protect and beautify your investment it is critical to select the
proper sealer to safeguard the structure.
Epoxy or Urethane Injection
Urethane
or epoxy injection is used to seal hairline cracks in concrete. The
materials and methods of application can vary which directly influences
the price.
Why
is epoxy so expensive?
Epoxy
is an expensive material to use; however, when applied correctly,
it can be a very good construction material for sealing and bonding.
The large expense to epoxy work is the preparation. The bonding
capabilities is the primary focus of an epoxy material and as so,
the preparation for the bond is critical. A fair bit of labour
is often involved in preparation and at times, epoxy work is required
in restricted places or awkward places to get to. In addition,
epoxy can be very expensive, up to $800 per gallon.
How
durable is epoxy?
Epoxy
is very durable and strong. Most all epoxies are stronger than
concrete, twice as strong is not uncommon. In addition, the
flexible properties of epoxy can be greater than concrete. Epoxy
is a chemically controlled product which can be adjusted to suit the
needs of the application.
Epoxy
vs Urethane - The Differences
Which
one to use? Epoxy provides a structural bond that is stronger than
the original concrete. Urethane is used when the problem is water
related rather than structural.
Another waterproofing advantage urethane has over epoxy is that flexible
urethane tolerates minor building movement.
CONCRETE SEALING
To
protect concrete structures, it is critical for building owners to
recognize that concrete must be protected through the application
of an appropriate sealer. Some primary reasons for sealing a concrete
structure include:
Preventing
water ingress
Inhibit
carbonation
Provide
waterproofing to cracked structures
Improve
Aesthetics
To
protect and beautify your investment it is critical to select the
proper sealer to safeguard the structure.
PARKADE REPAIRS
WATERPROOFING
MEMBRANES